Brickell’s Little Italy dining destinations

There’s no doubt one can live the “Dolce Vita style” in Miami and if you don’t think so, just try some of these suggestions when coming to Downtown and Brickell areas.
With so many options in Italian dining because of the new wave of Italians coming to the magic city for fun, for business and for a change like everybody else who is part of this big melting pot.
Miami can’t be more blessed than now starting with the big Brickell development boom less than a decade ago when Trattoria Rosinella and Perricone’s Restaurant and Marketplace opened followed by Segafredo and more recently Toscana Divino and world acclaimed Cipriani.

20140103-232403.jpg
I love the “Cioppino” served at Perricone’s. This is a traditional Italian American dish originated in the San Francisco Bay area, it was originally the fishermen’s stew made with left overs from fish and seafood dishes.

At Perricone’s you will find the same ambiance you may encounter in New York’s Little Italy district; friendly staff, reasonable prices and generous portions, typical of Italian American eateries, the market with a very good wine selection, artisan chocolates and everything you need for take away when on a rush for a quick home fixed up, just try the “antipasti” (appetizers) like stuffed peppers with rice or porcini mushrooms or the stuffed tomatoes with mozzarella cheese.

20140103-234450.jpg
The home made fresh pasta at Perricone’s served with Gradma Jennie’s signature pomodoro ragu sauce topped with fresh basil and ricotta cheese

They have their own extra virgin olive oil and table wine, Perricone’s is definitely a place for a business lunch in the quiet and lush gazebo surrounded by tropical plants so characteristic of our territory.
For a more intimate dining with candle lights you can opt for the charming “al fresco” garden or one of the cozy rooms in the wooden cottage.
At Perricone’s they are so cool they will even pick you up from your hotel or office on their own Eco friendly cart service.
Perricone’s features a generous and affordable Sunday brunch, live music weekly and hosts the monthly Brickell Art walk like the other restaurants around to mention a few : Baru Urbano, Dolores but you can call me Lolita, the Red Bar (why not? Brickell should have it’s own art walk too)

20140104-001452.jpg
Delicious homemade meatballs at Trattoria Rosinella topped with their own tomato sauce, fresh basil and parmesan cheese

Trattoria Rosinella is the perfect spot to start your day “alla Italiana” before going to work (if you have time of course) Italians take their time to stop by the local coffee shop for a Capuccino and “cornetto” (a pastry filled with Nutella, fruit jam or plain) you can get yours freshly made at Rosinella’s bakery.
This family owned restaurant and bakery has always a lunch special menu of the day with home made pastas and fresh sauces made from scratch and aromatized with garden herbs.

20140104-001701.jpg
The crab and lobster stuffed ravioli over a 3 cheese sauce

Coming myself from a home cooking tradition I can tell when mamma is cooking in the kitchen and that’s exactly the same feeling you’ll get at this mom and pop eatery where fresh ingredients are the key to their success, simple dishes made to order and a culinary knowledge passed from generation to generation making the soul of a true trattoria and guess where? In the heart of Brickell just across from the newest Italian ultra modern and design development “Millecento” by Pininfarina.

20140104-001844.jpg
The bakery has always something to take home or to taste right there. I love their fresh bread selection and pastries.

Now I am going to brag about this place and is one of my favorites spots after work, it will be yours too once you try it.  Just stop for an aperitif by the bar inside Toscana Divino and get some “antipasti” with it, go for one of the classic Italian drinks or a glass of Italian wine (and their wine list is pretty extensive) well selected from the Tuscan region with some cold cuts and cheeses.  I love their burrata plate with arugula and pomodorini (cherry tomatoes) always served with a small dish of sea salt and their aromatic extra virgin olive oil from Tuscany over some warm home made bread.

20140104-012439.jpg
The salmon tartare at Toscana Divino

Toscana Divino is the highest expression of modern Italian Fusion cuisine with the talented and creative executive Chef Julian Baker who gets inspired blending Tuscan flavors adding old world touches.   Toscana Divino is also a one stop restaurant and fashionable place where you can find the finest handmade goods from Florence like those oversized Italian leather purses or the stylish Tuscan glassware that is used at the Restaurant.

20140104-012527.jpg
Brunch at Toscana Divino is delicious paired with a Bellini o Mimosa cocktail

The brunch is superb and for those who love wine, good news, they also host monthly wine tasting and classes. So if you shop around Mary Brickell Village and decide to take a coffee pause and a decadent pistachio cake; an aperitif with friends after work, a business lunch or a quality dinner with that special one, Toscana Divino is the place.

20140104-012548.jpg
Why not some caviar too at Toscana Divino, I can’t get enough of the pairings with the tartare and mixed greens, capers, chives and sour cream but here my recommendation is with some oak mature Chardonnay

Segafredo is definitely the meeting point in Brickell, a casual and modern baroque seating outdoors and indoors with trendy lounge music spinned by local DJ’s has been for years the choice destination for young professionals.  I like to go to Segafredo at sunset for an aperitif or to chat with friends I haven’t seen in centuries. The music might get too loud after 9 pm when the drinks and cocktails are the best option.  Their cocktail menu is fantastic, try their specialty coffee drinks like Espresso Margarita or Coffee Martini made with a double shot of Segafredo Zanetti coffee.

Start with some brick oven pizza served at Segafredo topped with prosciutto and aragula with fresh mozzarella slices and a dash of extra virgin olive oil
Start with some brick oven pizza served at Segafredo topped with prosciutto and arugula with fresh mozzarella slices and a dash of extra virgin olive oil

From Thursdays trough Saturdays Segafredo’s  night club Spazio Nero is open with bottle service or drinks at the bar.  The mini club gets packed with the local crowd, the resident and guests DJ’s spinning to the latest progressive house music.  Very soon with the opening of the new SLS Hotel and Residences, Brickell’s nightlife will take an entire new spin and we can’t wait for it to happen.

The frappe at Segafredo Zanetti in Brickell
The frappe at Segafredo Zanetti in Brickell, a great option in our hot Miami days

For more than 80 years the Cipriani family witnessed film stars, socialites and paparazzi at their landmark Harry’s Bar in Venice; from Sophia Loren to Greta Garbo, Fellini and Marcello Mastroiani, they all came to dine and be seen at the legendary Harry’s Bar.  In 1948 the Bellini cocktail was created there and now you can get yours at Cipriani in Brickell/Downton Miami location.

The impeccable service at Cipriani restaurant inside the Viceroy Hotel and Residences in Brickell.  Cipriani is a symbol of Italian fine dining around the world.
The impeccable service at Cipriani restaurant inside the Viceroy Hotel and Residences in Brickell. Cipriani is a symbol of Italian fine dining around the world.

Cipriani is all about “who is there” and “who has been there” Can’t get enough of Sobe’s glamorous dining at top restaurants in 5 star hotels?  Well then you come to Cipriani for more and you never know who is going to show.  The celebrity approved restaurant is finally here in Miami.  Reservations a must and dress to impress attire is suggested, after all, don’t you want to show off those new Giuseppe Zanotti design shoes?

The Carpaccio was invented in the 1950's at Harry's Bar in Venice founded by Giuseppe Cipriani.  Today you can taste the Carpaccio at Cipriani Brickell and be part of years of culinary history.
The Carpaccio was invented in the 1950’s at Harry’s Bar in Venice founded by Giuseppe Cipriani. Today you can taste the Carpaccio at Cipriani Brickell and be part of years of culinary history.

Dolce & Gabbana, Visions of Sicily

For the fashionable pair Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, their beloved Sicily is an endless source of inspiration. With several collections on a row from New York to Milan Fashion Weeks they take us on a tour to rediscover Sicilian traditions, architecture, and history through Fashion.

The sumptuous gold-thread embroidery, religious and devotional hand work as seen on the Monreale Cathedral in Palermo with the most stupendous Byzantine mosaics. The sumptuous gold-thread embroidery, religious and devotional hand work as seen on the Monreale Cathedral in Palermo with the most stupendous Byzantine mosaics.
Montserrat Franco in Dolce & Gabbana's Byzantine dress Montserrat Franco wearing the Byzantine dress

 

Detail of 12-13th century mosaic of Christ Pantocrator at the Monreale Cathedral Detail of 12-13th century mosaic of Christ Pantocrator at the Monreale Cathedral
The Cathedral of Monreale is the pinnacle achievement of Arab-Norman art. Founded in 1172 by William II. A Benedictine Monastery was built next to it. The Cathedral of Monreale is the pinnacle achievement of Arab-Norman art. Founded in 1172 by William II. A Benedictine Monastery was built next to it.
An add from the Fall/Winter 2013 campaign by Dolce & Gabbana featuring Monica Bellucci An add from the Fall/Winter 2013 campaign by Dolce & Gabbana featuring Monica Bellucci
dolce Details from the runway at the Milan Fashion Week 2013. The sumptuous gold, the Cardinal red, the Sicilian widow black and the pure white. This collection is a romantic view of the Sicilian women going to Church, wearing their lace veils and rosaries, the accessories are exaggerated with bejeweled crowns that makes them part Saint and part principessa.
Montserrat Franco wearing Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, bag and dress from the Sicilian Baroque collection Montserrat Franco wearing Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses from the Sicilian Baroque collection
In Dolce & Gabbana tailored suit during one of my visits to Southern Italy. In Dolce & Gabbana tailored suit during one of my visits to Southern Italy.

The 2013 Fall/Winter Collection is all about Domenico Dolce’s homeland, honoring the materials of homespun craft (needlepoint, tapestry) the faded baroque splendor in the palaces and basilicas of Southern Italy, an invitation to look deep in to our lost traditions and beliefs, no matter what they are.

2013 Montserrat Franco

Capri : A rock in the middle of the sea (Uno scoglio in mezzo al mare)

The Faraglioni, the island distinguished rock formations. The Faraglioni, the island distinguished rock formations.

The myth about Capri goes back to Homer’s epic tale “The Odyssey” when Ulysses and his troop were going back to Troy, they couldn’t resist the temptation to hear the seductive songs of the Sirens around today’s Capri, they filled out their ears with wax so they won’t listen to the Sirens and kept navigating but they crashed in to the stones and vanished.

Of course you won’t vanish like Ulysses’ troops in Capri but you will be so tempted by the natural beauty.  One of the trips you can do is on a boat to the Grotta Azzurra (The Blue Grotto) where Romans used to worship the waters.

A view from The Punta Tragara Hotel A view from The Punta Tragara Hotel

Capri is the world’s first resort, dating back Emperor Augustus (29 B.C.) at that time Capri was under Naples rule, Augustus gave to Naples the Island of Ischia and turned Capri in to his very own private Resort. Today you can enjoy the magnificence of the oldest resort in the world just like Jacky O, Audrey Hepburn, Rita Hayworth and many more celebrities and film stars did in the 1950’s when international tourism arrived to Capri.

La Piazzetta Capri is so charming, an island so fashionable with a unique style. Just stop by the Piazzetta where you can watch the locals wearing their impeccable white pants, sipping limoncellos at sunset.
Arriving to Marina Grande. Capri is about 4 square miles, easy to explore. Being there gives you a sensation of being apart from the world, because cars are prohibited in such a small island, you need to walk everywhere. Arriving to Marina Grande. Capri is about 4 square miles, easy to explore. Being there gives you a sensation of being apart from the world, because cars are prohibited in such a small island, you need to walk everywhere.

When coming to Capri, don’t expect to rush anything (piano, piano) slowly slowly, this is the land of the “Dolce far niente” (sweet idleness).  Act like a local, walking the streets Jacky walked, a good excuse to get your handmade sandals to measure by the local handcrafters, wear oversized sunglasses, a silk foulard in your head and capri pants.

“The charm of Capri is that little by little you become part and parcel of life on the island, and as small as it is, there are always new discoveries” (Cyril Dwek)
The first evidence of humans, tools, weapons and pottery were found in Anacapri, the village above Capri, early Greek colonists called Teleboians who arrived in the 8th century B.C, (Pictured here a view from Villa San Michelle) The first evidence of humans, tools, weapons and pottery were found in Anacapri, the village above Capri, early Greek colonists called Teleboians who arrived in the 8th century B.C, (Pictured here a view from Anacapri’s Villa San Michelle)
The Etruscan sphinx at Villa San Michelle The Etruscan sphinx at Villa San Michelle

There are many theories about the name Capri, a popular one says that it comes from the Greek “kapros” (wild boar) but the most widely theory is that it derives from the Latin “capreae” (goats) which makes sense been a referred as the Goat Island.

After Augustus died (poisoned or not by his wife Livia) his successor Tiberius took possession of Augustus villas converting them in a place for banquets and orgies, this lifestyle which is part of Capri's historical facts can be seen on Gore Vidal's film After Augustus died, his successor Tiberius took possession of Augustus villas converting them in a place for banquets and good times, this lifestyle can be remembered on Gore Vidal’s film “Caligula”
The gardens at Villa San Michelle in Anacapri The gardens at Villa San Michelle in Anacapri
When you walk around Capri one famous sightseeing is Villa Jovis, the residence of Tiberius, he named that way in honor to Jove (Jupiter) the God of conviviality When you walk around Capri one famous sightseeing is Villa Jovis, the residence of Tiberius, he named that way in honor to Jove (Jupiter) the God of conviviality
One of the many villas you will see while walking around Capri One of the many villas you will see while walking around Capri
The courtyard at La Scalinatella Hotel The courtyard at La Scalinatella Hotel was home of the couturier Valentino, now owned by the Morano family, is where Churchill and Maria Callas used to party.
La Caponata Caprese, one of my favorite restaurants in Capri is Edode where you can taste their version of La Caponata Caprese: One of my favorite restaurants in Capri is “Edode” where you can taste their version of “caponata caprese” made with buffalo mozzarella, anchovies, kalamata olives, basil, zucchini, tomatoes and fresh pressed extra virgin olive oil under a bed of whole wheat bread dipped in water and olive oil.
The Caprese cuisine is fresh, simple and less complicated, the fish brought technically from the sea to the table with a few hours of being caught. The sword fish pictured here was seasoned with just fresh aromatic herbs, lemon and olive oil. The Caprese cuisine is fresh, simple and less complicated, the fish brought technically from the sea to the table with a few hours of being caught. The sword fish pictured here was seasoned with just fresh aromatic herbs, lemon and olive oil.
On this tiny island everything seems to taste better, pictured here the infamous Tiramisu On this tiny island everything seems to taste better, pictured here the infamous Tiramisu
In the winter of 1952 Pablo Neruda stayed and composed during his exile at the home of prominent Caprese Edwin Cerio In the winter of 1952 Pablo Neruda stayed and composed during his exile at the home of prominent Caprese Edwin Cerio

The iconic Caprese boutique “La Parisienne” is perhaps known for the famous Capri trousers, here is where Jacky Kennedy Onassis used to have hers tailor made. Michael Kors was for years a guest at The Grand Hotel Quisisana and he described the view from the terrace facing Via Camerelle as the front row of a fashion show.

Fashion designer Oscar de La Renta went to Capri to receive the award “Tiberio d’oro” at Mare Moda, the island notorious fashion show. Valentino, Givenchy, Gianfranco Ferre, Missoni, they all came personally to show at Mare Moda.

When Emilio Pucci opened his first boutique in 1950 it was in Capri, his vivid prints were so characteristic with Capri's vivid spirit, his boutique in Via Camerelle still stands. When Emilio Pucci opened his first boutique in 1950 it was in Capri, his vivid prints
were so characteristic with Capri’s vivid spirit, his boutique in Via Camerelle still stands.
The Missoni boutique right next to the historic Hotel La Palma The Missoni boutique right next to the historic Hotel La Palma
A more recent addition to Capri's fashion: The Capri watch, has the emblematic clock of the Piazzetta. A more recent addition to Capri’s fashion: The Capri watch, has the emblematic clock of the Piazzetta.
Montserrat Franco Sphinx Capri Sandal The tradition of sandal making in Capri is known worldwide.
Capri style Wearing the Capri style

Capri is more than a rock in the middle of the sea, Capri is a lifestyle, the concept of chic and casual was immortalized here and will be here to stay. If we are not the privileged ones that can make Capri our home we can
still live… the Capri way, salute!!!

Great trips around Italy on a Vespa: The Amalfi Coast

One of the greatest trips with breathtaking views are around the Amalfi Coast, most of these trips can be done a weekend, again the Vespa is one of the best transportations when it comes to getting around those narrowed roads One of the greatest trips with breathtaking views are around the Amalfi Coast, the Vespa is one of the preferred transportations when it comes to getting around those narrowed roads

Going to the Amalfi Coast is certainly memorable and a unique experience, the story of Amalfi is linked to the nymph Melphe, the apple of Hercule’s eye and the legend says that he built a city so high on the cliffs to buried her when she died but there is another theory: when Romans lived here in the IV century they named it Melfi.

In recent years Unesco has included the Amalfi Coast in its world Heritage sites In recent years Unesco has included the Amalfi Coast in its world Heritage sites

Suspended between the sea, sky ad earth the state road 163, twists and turns in an almost never ending path around the Coast, it has stunning views from every corner.  In the 19th century access to the Amalfi coast was very difficult and possible only by the mountains in mules.  By the 1900’s the isolation of this part of Italy attracted many travelers. In Edwardian times the coast became a destination of choice by British aristocrats, later actors such as Humphrey Bogart, Greta Garbo and Sophia Loren  brought fame to the area.

You can find some of the best well kept secret restaurants of Italy (Michellin starred and local eateries) with amazing menus that are well worth the narrowed roadside trip and the headache.

A view from the Amalfi coastline A view from the Amalfi coastline

Arriving to Nerano

nerano The first stop in the Amalfi coast is the quiet fishermen village of Nerano, part of Massa Lubrense. Below is the town of Marina del Cantone popular for its small seafront and restaurants, here is the Star Michelin Restaurant “La Taverna del Capitano”
Fior di zucca ripiena (stuffed zucchini flower) How beautiful is to eat a flower stuffed with fresh ricotta cheese on a bed of summer tomato sauce Fior di zucca ripiena (stuffed zucchini flower) How beautiful is to eat a flower stuffed with fresh ricotta cheese on a bed of summer tomato sauce.
capitano 2 Taverna del Capitano; a family tradition from grandfather Alfonso to son Salvatore Caputo who is one of the youngest recognized Chefs of Southern Italy. Pictured here marinated spigola (European sea bass) covered with grilled aubergine, with zucchinis in julienne, cherry tomatoes and a bed of aromatic herb sauce. I paired this dish with Marisa Cuomo’s Amalfi Coast Fior D’Uva wine.
la taverna del capitano Spaghetti alla Nerano, since you are in Nerano you must try this fresh hand made pasta which definitely tastes better with the fantastic view. It is characteristic with the bold flavors of the Provolone del Monaco cheese and slices of zucchini.
On my way to Positano I stopped to admire the view On my way to Positano I stopped to admire the view
View from La Sirenuse Hotel in Positano, great place for an aperitif at sunset View from Le Sirenuse Hotel in Positano, great place for an aperitif at sunset
Positano. In 1953 John Steinbeck wrote that Positano. In 1953 John Steinbeck wrote that “Positano bites deep, it is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone”
The view from Le Sirenuse Hotel opened in 1951 when the Marchesi Sersale turned their summer house in to a charming Hotel. The view from Le Sirenuse Hotel opened in 1951 when the Marchesi Sersale turned their summer house in to a charming Hotel.
Mozzarella di Bufala. I stopped at Next Café in Positano to savor this fresh traditional soft cheese eaten only within a day or so of being made, solely from the milk of water buffalo. In the Amalfi coast the Buffalo mozzarella is produced in Tramonti. Mozzarella di Bufala. I stopped at Next Café in Positano to savor this fresh traditional soft cheese eaten only within a day or so of being made, solely from the milk of water buffalo. In the Amalfi coast the Buffalo mozzarella is produced in Tramonti.

On my way to Praiano, Marina di Praia

Furore, before arriving to Amalfi I had to make a stop and contemplate the Fiordo of Furore, fishermen houses clinging on the rocky mountains. Be aware of the many steps you will need to climb from the road to the beach and careful with that 2 way road that fits only one car at a time. Before arriving to Amalfi I had to make a stop and contemplate the Fiordo of Furore, fishermen houses clinging on the rocky mountains. Be aware of the many steps you will need to climb from the road to the beach and careful with that 2 way road that fits only one car at a time.

Amalfi

Amalfi has the glamour of the once glorious maritime Republic, the Duomo di St Andrea was founded in the 9th century and rebuilt in Romanesque style in the 11th century. The campanile is is decorated with Arabic like interlaced arches, typical of the Southern Italian Amalfi has the glamour of the once glorious maritime Republic, the Duomo di St Andrea was founded in the 9th century and rebuilt in Romanesque style in the 11th century. The campanile is is decorated with Arabic like interlaced arches, typical of the Southern Italian Romanesque.
I stop for some readings at the Piazza Duomo before heading to one of my favorite restaurants A pause at Piazza Duomo before heading to one of my favorite restaurants “Da Gemma”
Fresh fish is important part of the Amalfi cuisine, the flavor and freshness of the fish should shine and not be masked with many flavors Fresh fish is important part of the Amalfi cuisine, the flavor and freshness of the fish should shine and not be masked with many flavors
The food from the Amalfi coast features more fish, lemons and herbs. Pictured here one of the dishes served at Da Gemma The food from the Amalfi coast features fish seasoned with lemons and herbs. Pictured here sea bass served at Da Gemma paired with the local white wine Marisa Cuomo’s Costa d’Amalfi Furore is a superb blend of 60% Falanghina grapes and 40% Biancolella
“Parmigiana di Melanzane al Cioccolato” (Baked Aubergine with chocolate) is a hybrid made for dessert with eggplant covered in hot chocolate sauce and chips of caramelized fruit, sugar covered almonds and nuts served with vanilla ice cream and a syrup snowflake for garnish
Sweet ending with macchiato (as I can't take my espresso is too strong) and a variety of home made cookies and flavored pop corn Sweet ending once more with macchiato (as I can’t take my espresso is too strong) and a variety of home made cookies and flavored popcorn
Ravello was part of the Duchy of Amalfi in the 9th century. Villa Rufolo is one of Ravello's landmarks by excellance, with Arabic elements and a mixture of 13th and 14th centuries architectural styles Ravello was part of the Duchy of Amalfi in the 9th century. Villa Rufolo is one of Ravello’s landmarks with Arabic elements and a mixture of 13th and 14th centuries architectural styles
A view from Villa Rufolo's amphitheater, the Ravello's annual Music Festival takes place here in July. Here is where Richard Wagner got his inspiration to write his Opera A view from Villa Rufolo’s amphitheater, the Ravello’s annual Music Festival takes place here in July. Also in this place is where Richard Wagner got his inspiration to write his Opera “Parsifal”

Maiori, Minori and Cetara

the next towns along the coastline are Maiori, Minori and Cetara where the ancient Maritime Republic arsenals were situated, dates back to Roman times.
Stopping at Sal Di Riso's bakery is a must while in Minori, Salvatore di Riso was the first Pastry Chef from Southern Italy to be admitted in to the prestigious Italian Master Pastry Chef Academy. His renowned cakes and desserts are world famous, Pope John Paul II approved. Stopping at Sal Di Riso’s bakery is a must while in Minori, Salvatore di Riso was the first Pastry Chef from Southern Italy to be admitted in to the prestigious Italian Master Pastry Chef Academy. His renowned cakes and desserts are world famous, Pope John Paul II approved.

Vietri sul Mare

Arriving to Vietri sul Mare will lead you to some traditional shops where you can get the best deals on majolica ceramic that made so popular this part of the Coast, these hand painted utensils have been made here since the 1400 Arriving to Vietri sul Mare will lead you to some traditional shops where you can get the best deals on majolica ceramic that made so popular this part of the Coast, these hand painted utensils have been made here since the 1400
I love to go to the Amalfi Coast in winter as well After my last stop at Vietri sul Mare I am ready to head back to Naples.

A room with a view. From The San Martino cloisters

A room with a view from The cloisters of San Martino in Naples
A room with a view from The cloisters of San Martino in Naples

Continuing with our trips around Naples at the top of the hill is one of the most important monuments in the city, the Certosa di San Martino (San Martino’s charterhouse).  You can reach this part of town from Chiaia via de funiculars or by Vespa which is the best way of transportation in Naples due to traffic, the narrowed streets and of course…the parking, besides getting around on a Vespa can only make your trip in Italian cities even more authentic.

After the unification of Italy the San Martino cloisters and the National Museum of San Martino were restructured.  Originally built in the XIV century.
After the unification of Italy the San Martino cloisters were drastically restructured. Originally built in the XIV century, part of the complex was turned in to a Museum. From there the dramatic views of the Gulf of Naples and the Vesuvius.
In 1325 the construction of the cloister begun under the rules of Charles of Anjou.  The Monastery was deconsecrated in 1806 and since 1866 became a Museum displaying the greatest pieces of Neapolitan art and history
In 1325 the construction of the cloister begun under the rules of Charles of Anjou. The Monastery was deconsecrated in 1806 and since 1866 became a Museum displaying the greatest pieces of Neapolitan art and history
Carthusian monks lived in the Monastery designed by Giovanni Antonio Dosio at the end of the XVI century.  The original look dramatically changed over the years with Baroque and Mannerist rebuilding.
Carthusian monks lived in the Monastery designed by Giovanni Antonio Dosio at the end of the XVI century. The original look dramatically changed over the years with Baroque and Mannerist rebuilding.
Inside the Museum of San Martino there are permanent and itinerant exhibitions like the Bourbon Royal Boat from an exhibit in collaboration with the Naval Museum of Naples.
Inside the Museum of San Martino there are permanent and itinerant exhibitions like the Bourbon Royal Boat from an exhibit in collaboration with the Naval Museum of Naples.
From the Aragonese to the Bourbon dynasties the Museum of San Martino presents important pieces dedicated to the Kingdom of Naples.
From the Aragonese to the Bourbon dynasties the Museum of San Martino presents important pieces dedicated to the Kingdom of Naples.
The Nativity scenes (Presepe) became a form of art and a very important part of the Neapolitan tradition in the 19th century.  This part of the Museum of dedicates an entire section to The Presepe.
The Nativity scenes (Presepe) became a form of art and a very important part of the Neapolitan tradition in the 19th century. This part of the Museum dedicates an entire section to The Presepe.
Another scene of the Nativity I found on display at The Grand Hotel Vesuvio in Naples during the presentation of the "Duemilla Vini" guide to the wines in Italy.  Note the attention to the details and how simple acts of life take active part in the Presepe Napoletano
Another scene of the Nativity I found on display at The Grand Hotel Vesuvio in Naples during the presentation of the “Duemilla Vini” guide to the wines in Italy. Note the attention to the details and how simple acts of life take active part in the Presepe Napoletano
Even Pulcinella is part of the Presepe (Nativity) Pulcinella is a classical character from the "commedia dell'arte" and is a traditional character in the Neapolitan puppetry both contemporary with the art of Nativity craft in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Even Pulcinella is part of the Presepe (Nativity) Pulcinella is a classical character from the “commedia dell’arte” and is a tradition in the Neapolitan puppetry. It shows how characters from different periods of time are mixed up, note the hanging baccala (cod fish) the provolone del Monaco cheese, the ugly tomatoes on a basket.

 

Pause for Coffee

In Naples coffee is a ceremony, the Neapolitans love their espressos very strong and you can have them everywhere, plenty of historic coffee shops and pasticcerias (cake shops) offering a wide range of coffee brands, many of them born in Naples such as Pasalacqua and Kenon.  In fact the moka pot (Napoletana) is a Neapolitan invention dated back from the late 19th centuries.

Coffee time in Naples is anytime, I take mine macchiato (with a dash of foam) if you are watching the line ask for "dietor" a low calorie non aspartame sweetener  because they will assume you will drink your coffee with sugar.
Coffee time in Naples is anytime, I take mine macchiato (with a dash of foam) if you are watching the line ask for “dietor” a low calorie non aspartame sweetener because they will assume you will drink your coffee with sugar.
coffee break and newspaper readings in Piazza Vanvitelli at the Vomero quarter
coffee break and newspaper readings in Piazza Vanvitelli at the Vomero quarter
Scaturchio, one of the traditional coffee and cake shops in the Vomero quartier right next to the Funiculare station.
Scaturchio, one of the traditional coffee and cake shops in the Vomero quarter right next to the Funiculare station.
Café Biandini , as you can see most coffee shops in Italy sell more than coffee,  they are also a bar, a bakery and most of them offer a lunch menu and aperitif buffet from 5 pm.  I love the elegant uniforms their trained baristas wear.
Café Biandini , as you can see most coffee shops in Italy sell more than coffee, they are also a bar, a bakery and some offer a lunch menu and aperitif buffet from 5 pm. I love the elegant uniforms their trained baristas wear.

Italians know if someone is not Italian when they order cappuccinos during the day, afternoon or after a meal.  Cappuccinos are meant to be drunk only with breakfast, with those delicious “cornettis” (pastries).  After lunch or diner they drink their espressos.  Coffee is a way of expression and is a form of art.  Enjoy an espresso before or after your Museum visit.  See you tomorrow!!!

A classic Italian breakfast: cappuccino, orange juice and cornettis, the pastries can plain or filled with nutella, marmalade or chocolate.
A classic Italian breakfast: cappuccino, orange juice and cornettis, the pastries can be plain or filled with nutella, marmalade or chocolate.

(c) 2013 Montserrat Franco.  All pictures by me taken with IPhone 4S and Sony Cybershot.

Viaggio Italiano (Italian Journey)

The picturesque Borgo Marinaro quarter built for the fishermen of Santa Lucia
The picturesque Borgo Marinaro quarter built for the fishermen of Santa Lucia

Italy keeps inspiring most of us over and over, it is everything from the Arts to the Music, from the Architecture to the Fashion, from the History to the wine and food.

Naples is one of the cities that fascinates me with incredible characteristics and the magnificent views of the Vesuvius, wherever your position is, you will be able to have that postcard illusion.  Here you need to take your time, to eat and drink like a local, don’t bring your watch, time here seems like it never goes by, it is the perfect way to feel that “La Dolce Vita” style.

Borgo Marinaro, Marecchiaro and Santa Lucia

One of the romantic walks around Naples is by the Lungomare in the Santa Lucia neighborhood, with plenty of restaurants to choose from surrounded by colorful sun kissed boats lining around the “Borgo Marinaro” (the fishermen’s quarter).  Naples inspired also the most romantic Italian songs (canzonettas) and it’s here in this quarter where they were born.  In Naples everything is about love, food and the simple life, just experience it for yourself.

The Lungomare was frequented by Sophia Loren and Salvador Dali and you can still have the same taste and get your inner diva and glamour do the rest, just put on some huge sunglasses with a little black dress and enjoy a glass of Falanghina wine which is the perfect pair with any of the local seafood dishes.

A view from the Lungomare where you can find plenty of restaurants, one better tha the other
A view from the Lungomare where you can find plenty of restaurants, one better than the other
Castel dell"Ovo, the oldest castle in Naples dated back to Roman times.  In the 5th century it was a Monastery, many additions and changes were added through times.
Castel dell”Ovo, the oldest castle in Naples dated back to Roman times. In the 5th century it was a Monastery, many additions and changes were added through times.

The legend around the Castel dell”Ovo and the particular name first appears in the XIV century and it talks about a magic egg that was hidden in the castle.  Today the castle with his particular tufa walls is home of art exhibitions and retrospectives that can be visited by the public.

Stepping for some water at the fountain in the Castel dell'Ovo, ballerina flats are recommended for long walks, I always keep a pair in my handbag.
Stepping for some water at the fountain in the Castel dell’Ovo, ballerina flats are recommended for long walks, I always keep a pair in my handbag.
The Immacolatella Fountain built in the XVII century
The Immacolatella Fountain built in the XVII century
One great place to eat in Marecchiaro is Trattoria Da Cicciotto with the splendid view of the Vesuvius and a glass of Falanghina
One great place to eat in Marecchiaro is Trattoria Da Cicciotto with the splendid view of the Vesuvius and a glass of Falanghina
At Marecchiaro don't forget to follow the waiter's advice and take the antipasti della casa (house appetizers) they will keep bringing them before your main course; experience the flavors and simplicity of the fresh dishes by the sea
At Marecchiaro don’t forget to follow the waiter’s advice and take the antipasti della casa (house appetizers) they will keep bringing them before your main course; experience the flavors and simplicity of the fresh dishes by the sea.
One of the appetizers served at Da Cicciotto is this amazing octopus on fresh squeezed pomodorini (cherry tomatoes) and pieces of home made toasted bread.  Buon apetito!!!
One of the appetizers served at Da Cicciotto is this amazing octopus on fresh squeezed pomodorini (cherry tomatoes) and pieces of home made toasted bread. Buon appetito!!!
Walking by the Port in Santa Lucia with hand crafted sandals made in Capri and getting some of that "O' Sole Mio" feeling.
Walking by the Port in Santa Lucia with hand crafted sandals made in Capri and getting some of that “O’ Sole Mio” feeling.
Octopus salad seasoned with just extra virgin olive oil, lemons from Sorrento and parsley.  Experience the taste of the Gulf and you will taste the difference.
Octopus salad seasoned with just extra virgin olive oil, lemons from Sorrento and parsley. Experience the taste of the Gulf of Naples, stop by “Anima e Cozze” one of the many Restaurants of the Lungomare.
Grilled Calamari seasoned with just lemon juice and olive oil at Anima e Cozze restaurant.
Grilled Calamari seasoned with just lemon juice and olive oil at Anima e Cozze restaurant.
After all these appetizers you need to get some pasta, remember why Sophia Loren said that everything she has was she owes to spaghetti, so forget about diets and eat this great "spaghetti alle vongole" a must have while in Naples and one of the traditional dishes of the "Parthenopean cuisine" most restaurants in Naples serve this dish
After all these appetizers you need to get some pasta, remember why Sophia Loren said that everything she was she owes to spaghetti, so forget about diets and eat this great “spaghetti alle vongole” a must have while in Naples and one of the traditional dishes of the “Parthenopean cuisine” most restaurants in Naples serve this dish just like it suppose to be “al dente”. Another great restaurant in the Borgo Marinaro is “Oste Pazzo” where I had this home made pasta.

After lunch at the Borgo Marinaro or Santa Lucia a short walk to the chic Chiaia neighborhood it’s a must for the designers stores and the majestic architecture.

Chiaia

Walking with stilettos can be difficult in Naples because of the cobbler stone streets but if you want to travel in style and walk in style everything has a price.  Italian women know how to master this game.
Walking with stilettos can be difficult in Naples because of the cobbler stone streets but if you want to travel in style and walk in style everything has a price. Italian women know how to master this game.

Naples can be a city with many contradictions, narrowed claustrophobic streets full of Vespas and chaotic traffic or wide avenues with the most glamorous shops and ladies covered in fur and designer handbags.  While in Chiaia experience both sides, take a look at the Fascist era architecture and monuments and don’t forget it’s time for an aperitif, our version of Happy Hour, Italian Style, somewhere around 5 to 7 pm. Chiaia gives many options when it comes to aperitif, the difference is that with one drink most bars offer a full buffet of appetizers and nibbles, all self service but with moderation, remember soon will be time for dinner.

One of the trendy barettis (little bars) in Chiaia it is definitely where the nightlife is in Naples.  You can always meet locals and friends at the "aperitivo" time.
One of the trendy barettis (little bars) in Chiaia it is definitely where the nightlife is in Naples. You can always meet locals and friends at the “aperitivo” time. Try an “Aperol spritz” or a “Prosecco” with some ready served appetizers before heading out for dinner at one of the many great restaurants in town.
The Chiaia quarter during Christmas time, shopping can be also a challenge in Naples, remember that everything closes from noon to 3or 4 pm and then reopens until 7  o 8 pm.
The Chiaia quarter during Christmas time, shopping can be also a challenge in Naples, remember that everything closes from noon to 3 or 4 pm and then reopens until 7 o 8 pm.
Chiaia is also full of vintage stores, art galleries and antique shops.
Chiaia is also full of vintage stores, art galleries and antique shops.
The Georgio Armani store in Chiaia showing some of the fantastic designs by Armani for the red carpet.
The Georgio Armani store in Chiaia showing some of the fantastic designs by Armani for the red carpet.

Well, I think has been a long day and you need some rest because tomorrow you will be visiting more wonderful monuments, eating amazing food and tasting excellent wines, what a wonderful life!!!

(c) 2013 Montserrat Franco.  All pictures by me taken with an IPhone 4, 4S and Sony Cybershot